The Finished Installation
Once you’ve bent all your hard tubes … it’s time to mount and install them on to the reservoir/pump, radiator and CPU water block. This part isn’t always easy … but with practice, you’ll get it. I had to re-measure the hard tubes several times, so that I can cut and trim them, to fit into the loop nice and tight.
Make sure the compression fittings, adapters and plugs are all secured and screwed on properly. We don’t want any leaks!
Once you’re happy with the flow plan of the loop … you’re ready to bleed the system with the coolant. Some people flush the loop with distilled water first. I personally, I dive straight in 🙂
The Completed System (with coolant)
We used the included 24pin ATX Bridge Tool to bleed the coolant into the loop. We used a funnel which was small enough to fit through one of the holes on top of the reservoir. Interestingly, we had to multi-task in order to feed the coolant in to the reservoir, while at the same time switch on the ATX power supply.
Once the loop is fully loaded with the coolant, you’ll get some tiny bubbles within the coolant… that’s normal. So, in order to get rid of these bubbles, just let your loop run overnight or for a few hours at least.
When you’re satisfied with the loop (and you’ve checked that there’s no leaks or bubbles) … you can remove the 24pin ATX Bridge Tool. Next, plug in the main 24pin ATX cable from your power supply to motherboard … and pray everything works 🙂
Ok, let’s take a look at idle and load temperature readings in our next page for both default (3.4GHz) and overclocked CPU speeds (4.0GHz).
