Dissection: Part I
Disclaimer: Power supplies can have dangerous voltages inside them even after being unplugged, DO NOT OPEN POWER SUPPLIES. It’s just not a good idea. Opening a power supply and poking around inside could very well kill you. Don’t try this at home. Don’t try this at work. Just don’t do it.
As a bonus, CM thoughtfully reminds you:
Don’t mess with the sealed sticks, if you damage it the sticks warranty will be removed.
Seasonic KM3, which as I said at the beginning of this review answers pretty much all questions.
So far nobody has managed to screw up a KM3 design, in theory CoolerMaster spec’d Japanese caps throughout, which is pretty much all you need to do to make sure you end up with a good PSU. We’ll still step through it though.
Inside the Faraday cage (ignore the sloppy solder, it was nice before I tried to convince the cage to come off) we have two Y caps, an X cap and an inductor.
On the main PCB we have two more X caps, two more Y caps, two more inductors, a TVS diode and a thermistor (with relay). One of the inductors was not fully seated before being soldered, that’s why it’s tipped over. Not a functional issue, but disappointing anyway.
For a bonus disappointment one of the two input power leads didn’t have its sleeve fully seated either:
The phase wire, naturally. There isn’t anything nearby to short to, but it’s still disappointing.
Two GBJ1506 rectifiers kick off the APFC bits, they’re rated at 15a and 600v.
Two 5R199P MOSFETs (17a 550v) and a SCS106AG (6a 600v) diode do APFC boost duties.
Two Hitachi caps are on storage duty, one of ’em has a solder blob stuck to the side:
Not huge, but big enough to cause problems if it falls off and lodges somewhere it ought not.
Also nearby is an extra Y cap and that smacked during assembly:
Four of these 5R399P MOSFETs (9a 560v) are on main switching duty.
